Friday, August 15, 2014

KEEP SUMMER GLOWING: ETERNAL SUNSHINE MAKEUP


Just like the super moon, summer is starting to wane, and I’m beginning to feel a little wistful about everything al fresco. We all look our best in summer, the net result of eating farmer’s market fresh produce, being outdoors and feeling refreshed. But while we can’t stop the earth from turning, we can keep summer alive all year by keeping the glow going into fall. The key is to not go too orange---you don’t want to look like a contestant from Dancing with the Stars! I’ve spent years perfecting a timeless summer look with bronzers and luminous liquid makeup for my high profile clients and here are all my secrets. 


Sisley's Eye Concealer
Energized Eyes: The key to fight tired looking eyes is concealer in peachy yellow tones. My favorite one is Sisley’s Phyto-Cernes Éclat Eye Concealer in shades #1, #2 and #3. This magic potion is an eyelift in a tube, and is worth every penny. If you are more budget-conscious, try MAC Mineralize Concealer in #20 or #30, depending on your skin tone (don’t go too light. That’s how you get raccoon eyes.) For extra oomph, I speckle luminizing foundation into the inside corner of the eyes to brighten and separate the eyes and on top of the cheekbones, blended into the foundation. My key product is Giorgio Armani’s Luminous Silk Foundation #3, but if this is too tricky, you can use YSL’s iconic highlighter pen, Touche Éclat.


Go Deep: The steps for a summer glow is to hydrate the skin then go slightly darker with your skin tone. For good hydration, I have found that nothing feeds summer-parched skin better than argan oil. Layered under foundation, it emulsifies the makeup, allowing it to become sheer, like a veil. My must have foundation is Guerlain’s Lingerie de Peau, and its name says it all…it’s like a chemise for the skin. If you are still oil-aversive, try Laura Mercier’s Tinted Moisturizer in a tone slightly darker than your own which incorporates these two steps in one. Whatever route you choose, blend, blend, blend with your fingers, fanning out towards the ears and down the neck. The warmth of your hand will help the liquid melt into your skin flawlessly. It’s important that it looks sheer---like the light is coming through the complexion. 


Tom Ford's Bronzing Powder
A Touch of Sun: I love to use a mélange of colors that imitates how the sun hits you, reddish on your forehead, under cheekbones and down along the jawline and a little pinkish color applied on the apples and across the bridge of your nose. Best all around bronzer: Can we talk about Tom Ford’s Bronzing Powder in Gold Dust? Amazing! It’s in such high demand that Saks has issued a moratorium on the amount you can order in a month! This is a great one for lighter skin tones, or it can be used on all skin tones as an illuminator. For medium tones, try Tom Ford’s bronzer in Terra or I love Nars Bronzing Powder in Laguna. Darkest skin tones can use the Brunette mosaic from Guerlain’s Terracotta bronzing powder collection. To apply: use a kabuki shaped dome brush (I use Becca’s retractable one.) The flat surface loads just the right amount of powder, and you can sweep and blend this easily across your cheeks, jaw line, forehead and the bridge of your nose then towards your ears and neck. Then, I use Nars Super Orgasm cream blush on the apples of the cheeks to imitate the warm, pinky glow. 


Young Brooke Shields
Belle de Jour by Nars
Finishing Touches: To avoid Kardashian level makeup overload, keep the rest of your face chic and understated. For lips, I mix a pale pink with a pale coral lipstick to create a perfect fleshy, kissable tone; the perfect Belle de Jour (and if you are not a mixologist, Nars has a lipstick called Belle de Jour!) For lashes, Givenchy’s Phenomen’ Eyes Mascara has a ball tip that allows you to load the top lashes evenly, and stroke the under lashes clean. Then, brows, brows, brows baby. If these are full and well groomed, you don’t need much else. Don’t over pluck! If you’re plucked, you’re f….far too old looking. Think Brooke Shields in her Calvins with those amazing eagle wing brows. Never wax---this thins the skin around the eyes, making it crepy. Pluck or thread sparingly, then fill in brow shape with feathery strokes from a good brow pencil (Kevin Aucoin makes the best). If done well, you won’t even need eyeliner or eye shadow. 

Then, go out! Makeup is great for self-esteem but going outdoors is food for the soul! No matter what the weather, air and exercise feed the skin and spirit and your mind is always en soleil!

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